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James Beard Award–winning writer Aleksandra Crapanzano shares the
secrets of the cakes Parisians bake at home, from the simplest
yogurt cakes to a deceptively easy bûche de Noël, from yuzu
madeleines to boozy flourless chocolate confections. When we think
of French desserts, we tend to imagine ornate creations and
confections. Perhaps we envision a tarte Tatin, but rarely a
homemade cake, whipped up on a weeknight with little fuss. But that
is exactly what Parisians make and eat. Gâteaux are simple,
delicious cakes, both sweet and savory, served to family and
friends. As food-columnist Aleksandra Crapanzano spent time in
Parisian home kitchens, she realized that the real magic is a
certain savoir-faire, that distinctly French know-how that
blends style and functionality in every aspect of life. By and
large, the French do not try to compete with their chefs, nor with
their boulangeres and patissieres. But many
Parisians are natural cooks, and most finish dinner with a little
something sweet, effortlessly made and casually served. The trick
is having an arsenal of recipes that, once mastered, become
blueprints, allowing for myriad variations, depending on what’s
in season and what’s in the cupboard. It is a practical approach,
and the French are nothing if not practical. That is
the savoir-faire—from tying a silk scarf just so to popping
a gateau in the oven without anyone even noticing. When you know
what you’re doing, there’s no need to overthink it. It looks
easy because it is easy. While the Paris culinary world
is experiencing a fresh vibrancy, certain traditions remain intact
yet may surprise in their modernity. For example, French cakes have
less sugar. The pure taste of apples is not masked by cinnamon, and
vanilla is never a given. A gateau may be lightly glazed, dusted
with cocoa or confectioners’ sugar, drizzled with rose water, but
rarely heavily iced. A splash of brandy, a squeeze of lemon or a
thin blanket of ganache elevates even the easiest of cakes in mere
minutes. And then there are savory cakes made with cheese, herbs,
ham, baked into a delicious loaf. These cakes salés are ideal for
picnic lunches, accompanied by a salad and a glass of
Sancerre. Gâteau includes cakes for birthdays, summer
feasts and winter holidays, last-minute dinner parties and school
lunches, as well as beloved regional recipes and guest
contributions from superstar Parisian bakers. Practical, simple,
and filled with over 100 rigorously tested recipes and charming
illustrations, Gâteau celebrates every day and
sometimes fanciful French cakes in all their glory.
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